Our man [formally] of Amsterdam


In Patagonia
February 6, 2010, 17:58
Filed under: Argentina, Chile, Travel

Like Bruce Chatwin In Patagonia, we went to the southernmost town in the world:

Ushuaia began with a prefabricated mission house put up in 1869 by the Rev. W. H. Stirling alongside the shacks of the Yaghan Indians [the lowest form of humanity, according to Darwin]. For sixteen years Anglicanism, vegetable gardens and the Indians flourished. Then the Argentine Navy came and the Indians died of measles and pneumonia …The settlement graduated from navy base to convict station. The Inspector of Prisons designed a masterpiece of cut stone and concrete more secure than the jails of Siberia. Its blank grey walls, pierced by the narrowest of slits, lie to the east of the town. It is now used as a barracks.

That was in the late 1970s, when Chatwin came this way. Today, the prison come barracks is a museum, like Alcatraz, open to the public and meant to show how penal justice was dispensed a century or so ago. Mornings in Ushuaia began in flat calm for Chatwin:

Across the Beagle Channel you saw the jagged outline of Hoste Island opposite and the Murray Narrows, leading down to the Horn archipelago. By mid-day the water was boiling and slavering and the far shore blocked by a wall of vapour.

He also noted that, “The blue-faced inhabitants of this apparently childless town glared at strangers unkindly. The men worked in a crab cannery or in the navy yards, kept busy by a niggling cold war with Chile. The last house before the barracks was the brothel. Skull-white cabbages grew in the garden.”

Well, the men and women today are much more friendly, they’re reproducing and most likely work in tourism or hospitality, though the cannery survives, supplying the plethora of Ushuaia’s restaurants with the local King Crab delicacy, a crustacean sensation unequalled for size, taste and the wrangling, wrestling effort needed to separate its succulent flesh from the hardest shell I’ve ever tried to crack. Eating one is an exercise in resistance training.

Plus, we cruised the Beagle Channel, lunched at Estancia Harberton, rode the El Tren del Fin de Mundo (the train at the end of the world) as well as the Old Patagonian Express, trekked the Parque Nacional Tierra Del Feugo and ate more Argentinian beef than is humanly possible. Later, in El Calafate, we clamped crampons on and toured the Perito Merino Glacier, as well as criss-crossed the Chilean border into Parque Nacional Torres del Paine, perhaps the alpine highlight at “The Uttermost Part of the Earth”, with its rugged granite pillars soaring almost vertically to nearly 3000 metres above the Patagonian steppe. Welcome to the end of the world; where nature in all its glacial glory lies untamed and unfurled.

Click image for Patagonia Flickr set

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Tango in Buenos Aires
February 3, 2010, 03:22
Filed under: Argentina, Travel

Click image to see tango Flickr set